July 2023 - Tasting Notes <Italy>

Ciao!

When preparing for this month, I knew we were exploring Italy and I was getting excited about the styles and quality of wines available to choose from. I spoke to a very good friend (who shall remain nameless), who said that Italian wine is overrated and to get a good bottle you have to pay over the odds!

Well, this is exactly why York Wine Club exists....I work tirelessly with my partners and suppliers looking for amazing wines that offer a little bit more. Sure, they aren't the Tiganello, Gaia or Sassicaia (the big Super Tuscan houses) ....these really do take 'cold hard cash' but I find authentic wines, which are well made with love that are affordable and express the climate, terroir and winemaking skill. These wines work well drinking on their own or on your dinner table with your mates and a beautifully prepared meal.

The pricing rise is primarily due to our American friends who consume almost 25% of Italy's wine exports (2023), this is up 10% on 2021. Italy is clearly 'en vogue' and this means we get less :-( There is always value for us to find, beyond the 'trophy' or 'look at me' wines. So strap yourselves in!!!!

A little bit about Italy. It is the largest wine region in the World, it has over 400 different grape varieties, many of which are indiginous and unique to the specific regions. This diversity allows for a vast array of wine styles, flavors, and aromas to be produced throughout the country. These are typically defined by the Apennine (down the spine of the country), Alps & Dolomite (to the North) mountain ranges and the proximity of the Mediteranean & Adriatic seas. These all provide significant influence to the style of the wines, along with the local terroir and geology.

I've included a little on each of the winemakers this month, so you can feel their passion....

A re-cap on wine quality! Italy has a comprehensive appellation system that regulates the production and labeling of wines. The classification includes various levels, such as Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG), Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC), and Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT). DOCG providing the highest quality. Let's explore.

I hope you enjoy. Big Love Matt x

Alasia Gavi del Comune di Gavi 2022, DOCG Gavi

Tasting Note: I love this wine!!!! Gavi comes from the Cortese grape, from the Piedmont region at the 'foot of the mountains'...Alasia wines are sourced from Araldica's best vineyards, using the most modern winemaking techniques, to add expression to these local varieties. The name (and label design) is taken from the legend of the Medieval Princess Alasia who eloped with a young Saxon knight and hid out in the Monferrato region. The remains of the Ca' d'Alasia (where they allegedly lived) is situated near Castel Boglione.

These Cortese grapes are sourced from selected, mature vineyards in the heart of the Gavi di Gavi zone. They are hand-picked, pressed and undergo temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel. The wine remains on its lees for 3 months before bottling. This is a beauty and has aromas of citrus, fennel and green apple. The palate is fresh and textural with ripe stone fruit and citrus characters. The wine has an appealing minerality and weight, with a light nuttiness on the long finish. Food Match: Try with a Carbonara or try with seafood, pasta salads and white meats.

Pallio di San Floriano Verdicchio Classico Superiore 2021, DOC Verdicchio Dei Castelli di Jesi

Before I start, this vintage is an AWARD winner! The 2021 vintage has multiple. It's won Bronze at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2023, Gold at the IWC 2023 & Bronze at the IWSC 2022. It's fairly nice :-)

Tasting Note: Since establishing their winery in Marche in 1976, the Pieralisi family have striven to create the very best from their vineyards. The 350 hectare estate now consists of around 103 ha of prime vineyard in and around Maiolati Spontini, Ancona, the heart of the classic production area of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. The appointment of talented young winemaker Simone Schiaffino, and collaboration with renowned Italian winemaking consultant Carlo Ferrini since the 2015 vintage, has added a new depth and complexity to their portfolio. The ‘Tenute Pieralisi’ range of wines represents the culmination of their project - a top tier of premium wines asserting the individuality of indigenous varieties Verdicchio and Montepulciano. Made from Verdicchio grapes grown in Monte Schiavo's 'Fossato' vineyard in the commune of Poggio S. Marcello. Who cares about the production, this is an award winning wine with an intense and persistent aromas of honey, almond blossom and toasted nuts and with developed ripe fruit characters. Textural and full flavoured with concentrated peachy fruit balanced by crisp acidity and stony mineral notes. The finish is long and nuanced with zesty grapefruit and lime flavours and complex savoury notes. Food Match: Grilled fish, pork, seafood risotto, ravioli.

Castel del Lupo Pinot Grigio ‘Della Ginestra’ 2021, DOP Olrepo Pavese

I've included two bottles of this as it's summer and I thought chilled whites over reds for this month. Tasting Note: Castel del Lupo, in the heart of Oltrepò Pavese, it dates back centuries - and includes the eighteenth century Palazzo Pegazzera. In 1974 three entrepreneurs took over this historic estate and began a regeneration process. Giovanni Doglio, whose father and grandfather were both Piemontese winemakers, has over 40 years experience managing wineries. Recently joined by his daughter Federica, he has worked tirelessly to develop the estate. They have purchased more vineyards (to cover 100ha at around 300m altitude), planted new vines and built a new cellar. The vineyards are now certified organic.

This is more than just a simple Pinot Grigio, the winemaking in this bottle adds complexity and sophistication. Made especially for us from grapes grown on the south facing, chalky Ginestra vineyard in the gently hilly Oltrepo Pavese DOC, the ‘Tuscany of northern Italy’. It’s a pure, gently aromatic style, crisp and lightly nutty, and a savoury, textural finish from 4 months on fine lees. It has a subtle, honeyed and lightly floral nose with citrus and white peach notes. The palate has fresh stone fruit and lemony characters leading to a gentle, textured mid-palate and an attractively crisp, saline finish with a touch of white spice. Food Match: Ideal as an aperitif, excellent with summery appetizers and fish dishes.

Montresor Bardolino Chiaretto Bio 2022, DOP Bardolino

Tasting Notes: The Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes are organically cultivated in the Bardolino region, southeast of Lake Garda. After harvesting the grapes are softly pressed, with a few hours of skin contact to give the delicate rosé colour. The wine is fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Aromas of redcurrant and citrus with lightly savoury notes. The palate is fresh and zesty with berry and pomegranate fruit balanced by crisp acidity and an appetizingly dry, sour cherry finish. Food Match: Drink with salads and light starters, or grilled fish dishes.

Montresor Corvina Bio 2022, IGT Verona

Tasting Note: Montresor is one of Verona’s historic houses, founded by Giacomo Montresor in 1892, with a reputation built on high quality, affordable Valpolicella and Amarone. In recent years the range has grown steadily with vineyards being developed in Friuli and northern Veneto, around Conegliano. The winery was family-owned until 2018 when Montresor was acquired by Cevico, a co-operative group based in Emilia Romagna, with 2 highly regarded Veneto co-ops as co-investors. Since then a major investment programme has transformed the company – with modern production facilities and a new winemaking team rejuvenating quality across the board, while access to high quality grapes from the Veneto co-owners has enabled some excellent new wines to be developed. This wine is certified organic.

Part of Montresor's new 'Bio' range of organic, characterful and contemporary wines - this Corvina is bright and berry-fruited. The Corvina vines are cultivated organically in the Verona region. After harvesting the grapes are destemmed and macerated on the skins in stainless steel at 18˚C for 15 days. Vibrant aromas of red berry fruits, with floral notes and hints of tangerine zest. The palate has fresh redcurrant and cherry characters, bright acidity and light, supple tannins. Food Match: Great with pasta and grilled meats.

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