You wanted France! We gave you France!

France: Tasting notes and January wines!

We have been asked so many times to do France……that this month we had to explore the spiritual home of wine. France has an enviable history and is the home to some of the greatest vineyards and wines in the World.

But at The Grape Guru, we’ll pay a nod to the Grand Crus of Burgundy and 1855 classification of Bordeaux, where you could pay big bucks for a great bottle of wine. We’re here to explore the special finds, the unique off the beaten track wines, those that we’ve found that we think are great to drink and great value.

Clearly lots of regions to explore, but this month we’ve deep diving in to Bordeaux & Alsace.

To begin, let’s talk about quality and appellation controllee, the geographic protection program and quality control system. Whose roots originated in 1411 when Roquefort was regulated by French parliamentary decree and then formally protected in 1925. The foundation layer is IGP (Indication Geographique Protégé) which ensures that (amongst other parameters) 85% of the wine in the bottle is from the region. Then comes PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) or AOC (Appellation Origin Controllee) and this ensures 100% of the wine in the bottle is from the region. However, it wasn’t until 1905 before the first formal French wine laws were created (outside of the 1855 classification) which were then followed in 1936 with the launch of the appellation system.

Alsace

Located in northeast of France, Alsace is something of a hidden treasure, known for its very

aromatic, floral and spicy white wines – and its white wines that make up over 90% of the region’s production. It is the same latitude as Champagne's Cote du Bar near Troyes and just slightly north of the Loire valley. So it's really very northern and you'd expect it to be a cool climate. However, it's geography, situated in the foothills of the Vosges mountains, means the vineyards are located in a rain shadow and are well exposed to the sun, which suits the slow ripening grape varieties grown here. Equally, it borders the Rhine river, which acts as a great moderator of temperature which helps to ripen the grapes (more sugar).

This means the climate in Alsace benefits from a moderate semi-continental climate, which is mostly sunny, hot and dry. And viticulturalists (the grape growers) use all the techniques available to them to ensure grapes ripen. Slope vines are trained low to the ground, to benefit from the radiated heat. Those in the plains are trellised to reduce the effects of frost in the spring. Rows are orientated E to W to ensure they get maximum exposure to sunshine. Organic and biodynamic practices are therefore possible due to the better conditions and lack of disease.

The best slopes are east and southern aspects on the STEEPEST slopes. It's cooler to the north and warmer to the south.

The first traces of vineyards in Alsace;

The Romans - river routes of the Rhine and Moselle to improve trading area;
Golden Age: 13th Century 100 villages, 14th century 170 villages to the 16th Century;
30 years War 1618-1648 - region was ruined;
Vin D'Alsace had a very good reputation in hillside plots;
Expansion occurred again in to the plains and common grape varieties were planted;
Napoleonic wars saw growth to 30,000 hectares in 1828 - MASS overproduction to fuel the armies;
Quality dropped and phyloxera arrived 1870's;
1918 - Alsace went from being German's largest wine region to France's smallest;
Creating high quality wines and mass production; caused confusion and so the region regressed to under 7,500 hectares;
Tried to create the AVA (Appellation Vins D'Alsace);
1945 - de Gaulle defined the AOC, varietals were planted to produce quality wines;
AOC reached in 1963, after being annexed from the original 1936 appellation system to;
- Organise production & marketing;
- Improve vineyard management;
- Facilitate relations between makers and buyers;
- Promote Vin D'Alsace for international consumption.

AOC Alsace Appellations

2 principal appellations: Alsace and Grand Cru Alsace (51 villages).

It wasn't until 1962 when Alsace was recognised and 70% of the production of the region falls in to this, with 90% of it being white. The key grape varieties include Riesling, Sylvaner, Gewurtztraminer and Pinot Gris.

The wines are heavily influenced by their German neighbours, and even the bottles share the same fluted shape. AOC Alsace wines are always sold in a Wine of the Rhine-shaped bottle, called Flute of Alsace which must be used by law. Since 1972, they must be bottled in their production region.

AOC Alsace Wine;

Made in precisely stipulated boundaries based on historical growing areas;
made from only one grape variety & the grape name can be mentioned on the label;
Blends possible, but lesser quality, sometimes called Edelzwicker or Gentil.

Since October 2011, for wines with a specific typicity and meeting higher standards, the name of AOC can be supplemented by:

‘14 Communales’ – Geographic boundaries

Tighter control for grape production;
More restrictive than regionals appellations;
14 communes or inter-communal entities were also given defined boundaries and can be indicated on labels in addition to the AOC Alsace.

‘Lieu-Dit’ – Specific Plots

Specific plots and parcels of grapes from the same vineyard;
Highlights terroir specific characteristics;
Even more so than the communales appellations;
Wines from these localities express several nuances: the fruitiness of grape varieties blends with the distinct terroir minerality.

AOC Alsace Grand Crus

In 2011, 51 Grand Cru areas were classified. The wines from these areas represent 4% of the total wine-growing region production. There are four varietals are usually allowed in the Grands Crus appellations: Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer.

There are however three exceptions to this rule: the blending of varietals is therefore authorised in Altenberg de Bergheim and Kaefferkopf whereas the Sylvaner is allowed in Zotzenberg.

On the label...

The label must mention one of the 51 appellations including the name of the lieu-dit as well as the vintage year. It usually indicates the grape variety unless it’s for blended wines.

Cremant de Alsace

Sparkling wines made using the traditional method

The original personality and unblemished quality of Crémant d’Alsace have had resounding success not only in Alsace but also in other French regions and with our European neighbours. Today the Crémant d’Alsace has become the top AOC sparkling wine to be consumed in homes across France after Champagne.

At the end of the 19th century, several Alsace-based wine-making businesses produced sparkling wines using the traditional method. This usage was less prevalent during the first half of the 20th century but was continued until the creation of AOC Crémant d’Alsace by a decree on August 24, 1976.

This decree provided the necessary framework for Vins d’Alsace wine houses to produce quality sparkling wine applying strict standards comparable to those required by professionals in the Champagne region. Today there are over 500 producers who belong to the Syndicate of Crémant d’Alsace Producers (Syndicat des Producteurs de Crémant d’Alsace).

Some Crémants are solely made from one grape variety which is indicated on the label. For others, they are made from a congenial blend of several varieties with each contributing to the subtle balance of the cuvée.

· Pinot Blanc is the major varietal used for white Crémants d’Alsace. It provides freshness and tenderness;

· Riesling produces Crémants with lively and fruity touches full of elegance and generosity;

· Pinot Gris is flavourful and full-bodied;

· Chardonnay delivers fine and light touches;

· Pinot Noir is the only grape variety used to produce Crémants d’Alsace rosés. It is also used to produce Blancs de Noirs (the skin of Pinot Noir grapes is dark but its flesh is white), bursting with allure and finesse;

· The vintage Crémants are often aged for a longer time bestowing a full-bodied character with hints of butter and brioche.

Harvest time

In their quest to produce glowing, elegant and fruity wines, the Alsace wine-growers choose relatively early harvesting dates, benefiting from the lively and radiant character of plump grapes. The berries must be harvested whole and placed in their entirety on the presses.

The art of vinification

After traditional fermentation, bubbles are naturally produced within the bottles themselves thanks to a second fermentation. After an ageing period on what is referred to as lees, which must be over nine months, the bottles are turned daily on their ends allowing the deposit to remain in the neck until they are disgorged. After the deposit evacuates, the volume lost is replaced by a liqueur dosage for brut, extra-brut or semi-dry, undertaken with a rigorous respect for the method.

Bordeaux

Like most of Europe, the Roman's brought wine to Bordeaux and were also adept at growing wines. The soil was good, the maritime climate helped and the great transport links of the Gironde, Garonne and Dordogne rivers assisted in moving wines to it’s markets.

Bordeaux has never followed the formal appellation origine controllee (AOC) outside of St Emillion (which has), but has trodden it’s own quality path from 1725 when the appellation boundaries were devised, through the 1855 classification and then beyond to the 1936 AOC’s.

Bordeaux truly began to develop in 1152, when Eleanor of Aquitaine, married the future king of England, Henry Plantagenet that things really developed. He became Henry 2nd. Bordeaux wine was served at the royal wedding.

By the late 1300s, Bordeaux had become a large city, 2nd biggest in the English monarchy. The Bordeaux wine trade began exporting to England in 1302 from St. Emilion for the pleasure of King Edward 1. Saint Emilion was the first Bordeaux wine exported. There was no Medoc business.

To help further advance the wine trade, the King of France exempted Negociants from taxes. Bordeaux remained English until 1453 (after the 100yrs war, which was actually 116 yrs). In fact, Richard the Lionheart, the son of Eleanor and Henry 2nd made Bordeaux wine his everyday beverage.

The next major event for the Bordeaux wine trade took place when the Dutch needed to build roads to make it easier to transport goods throughout the region.

The Dutch, along with the British were major purchasers of Bordeaux wine. While British consumers, along with the royal families of Europe sought the best wines of Bordeaux, the Dutch buyers were more concerned with the best value wines of the Bordeaux appellation.

This presented a problem for the Dutch because they needed their Bordeaux wine to be delivered quickly before it spoiled. Speed was an issue because they were seeking the wines for the lowest price and those wines would not keep. Dutch merchants came up the idea to burn sulfur in barrels, which aided the wine’s ability to last and age.

The Dutch are also credited with another even more important piece in the evolution of the Bordeaux wine trade. In fact, the next contribution by the Dutch changed the landscape of the Bordeaux wine region forever.

By the 1600s, numerous Bordeaux vineyards were already planted, cultivated, and producing wine. However, much of the region still consisted of unusable, swampland and marshes. Dutch engineers came up with the idea to drain the marshes and swamps. This allowed for quicker transportation of their Bordeaux wine and all of a sudden, there was a lot more vineyard land that was perfect for growing grapes to make more Bordeaux wine.

The Dutch engineer who was placed in charge of creating the plan to drain Bordeaux’s swamps was Jan Adriaasz Leeghwater, (1575-1650). It was Jan Adriaasz Leeghwater who changed the Bordeaux landscape forever when he removed the swamp water. This had two effects. It allowed for easier transportation of goods and people. More importantly, previously unusable land became perfect for agriculture and eventually many of the now-famous Bordeaux vineyards were created from what was previously nothing more than a swamp.

At first, Bordeaux wines were sold with only the name Bordeaux on the bottles. By the late 1600s, specific regions and brands began developing, allowing discerning consumers to chose which Bordeaux vineyard, or appellation they preferred. Haut Brion, Margaux, Lafite and Latour were the first brands to develop name recognition.

Slowly, buyers started to look for wines from specific communes. Once they began to recognize, or appreciate the differences, what we know of today as the Second Growths were the next brands to gain a following.

For all this commerce to thrive in a market driven by export, and for this Bordeaux was perfect because its ports were the largest and already busiest port for trade in all of France at the time. To facilitate the transportation, selling, and funding, the need for negociants and courtiers, was born. The earliest mention of this step in the Bordeaux wine trade dates back to 1620, with the Dutch firm, Beyerman. This quickly expanded in the early 1700s with the founding of firms that remain in business today, Nathaniel Johnston, Schroder and Schyler, and the Lawtons are examples of the first negociant firms. At the time, the chateaux tended the vineyard, made the wine, and placed it in the barrel.

From that point forward, the negociants handled the rest of the job from bottling, to sales and distribution. Keep in mind, the chateau owners were all wealthy and many were members of the royal family. 1725 was the year that specific appellation boundaries were first drawn up. The cumulative areas were known as the Vignoble de Bordeaux. At this point in time, wines began to be sold listing the region and area where the wine was produced. Consumers soon began to purchase wines from their favourite appellations and started to understand the differences between the wines and wineries in each commune.

Chateau were created in majestic fashion, during the French Revolution, Bordeaux estates were confiscated from the wealthy, members of the Royal Family, those with noble titles, and the Church. The estates were often broken up into smaller pieces and sold at auction. In the early 1800s the Napoleonic code of succession law, requiring residents to leave their property, in this case, chateau and vineyards, demanded that the holdings be equally divided among their children. In Burgundy and other French wine regions, this practice continually reduced the size of each generation’s holdings, and the vineyard’s perforce became smaller and smaller.

However, in Bordeaux, that is not what took place. To avoid the loss in size and scope of the vineyards, the owners began developing a system of shareholders for their estates instead of single owners. The shareholders were not subject to the Napoleonic code of succession law.

It can easily be said that the Medoc has always been a land of wealth and privilege at the top end. The region was created as a refuge for the wealthy along with those of noble birth, with royal blood coursing through their veins. They had the vision and the money to create what we know of as Bordeaux today. Due to their ties with others in the royal community, it was not long before Bordeaux wine was popular with royalty all over the world.

Bordeaux is France's largest winegrowing region, comprising approximately 280,000 acres of vineyards and making millions of cases of wine annually. The region is defined by its history, its blue-chip wines and, like most Old World regions, its complex appellation system through which wines are categorized by geographic origin.

Bordeaux is home to more than 6,000 growers either making and bottling their own wine or supplying their grapes to cooperatives and négociants. The wines are bottled under 60 distinct Appellations d'Origine Contrôllées (AOCs).

The grapes allowed in a red Bordeaux wine are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenère. Cabernet Sauvignon is generally dominant on the gravel-rich Left Bank; Merlot is preferred on the Right Bank. Cabernet Franc plays a strong supporting role in both areas, whereas the other three grapes' importance has dwindled.

There are now over 300 regions under the system….each with regulations to define quality. For example, it defines the grapes that can be grown…..for example in bordeaux you can grow, Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc, Carmenere & Malbec….since 2019 to combat climate change some grapes suited to warmer climates are introduced….Touriga Nacional, Marselan, Castets & Arinarnoa.

The white grapes they are predominantly Sémillon, Sauvignon blanc and Muscadelle. Other permitted grape varieties are Sauvignon gris, Ugni blanc, Colombard, Merlot blanc, Ondenc and Mauzac. Recently permitted by Bordeaux wineries, three new white grapes have been added. These grapes are Alvarinho, Petit Manseng, and Liliorila.[9]

Bordeaux introduced the concept of classification in 1855 under Napoleon III, and it now serves as an expression of quality and prestige worldwide. The principle of the crus classés (“classified growths”) perfectly illustrates the synthesis of a terroir’s typical characteristics and dedicated human intervention over many generations to ensure quality.

Grands Crus Classes en 1855 Medoc & Sauternes

The history of this classification;

At the Exposition Universelle of 1855 in Paris, Emperor Napoleon III asked each wine region to establish a classification. The Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and Industry, founded in 1705, began that process for the Gironde.

Criteria

Reputation of the wines and their transaction prices

Special labeling

This classification included only red wines from the Médoc, the Sauternes and Barsac sweet white wines, and one Graves red cru.

THE CATEGORIES

For reds:

60 crus from the Médoc and 1 cru from Pessac-Léognan (Château Haut-Brion) based on five categories;

· 5 Premiers Crus;

· 14 Deuxièmes Crus;

· 14 Troisièmes Crus;

· 10 Quatrièmes Crus;

· 18 Cinquièmes Crus.

For sweet whites:

27 crus of the Sauternes and Barsac appellations:

· 1 Premier Cru Supérieur;

· 11 Premiers Crus;

· 15 Deuxièmes Crus.

Sole revision:

In 1973, the promotion of Château Mouton Rothschild from the rank of Deuxième Grands Cru Classé to that of Premier Grand Cru Classé (Médoc).

The Graves Classification

The history of this classification;

In 1953, at the request of the Syndicat de défense de l’appellation des Graves, the Institut national des appellations d’origine (INAO) established this classification.

Criteria

By municipality and wine type (red or white).

Special labeling

Only one classification level, no hierarchy; this classification is not subject to revision.

The Saint Emillion Classification

82 crus in the AOC Saint-Émilion classification;

The history of this classification

Starting in 1954, at the request of the Syndicat de défense de l’appellation Saint-Émilion, the Institut national des appellations d’origine (INAO) began the classification of crus of this appellation

Special labeling

The decree states that the INAO must revise the classification every ten years. Six classifications have been established since 1954.

Criteria

The sixth and final classification, published on September 6, 2012, resulted from a new procedure, entirely under the authority of the INAO, with the assistance of the Ministries of Agriculture and Consumption.

THE CATEGORIES

The 2012 classification names 82 estates: 64 Grands Crus classés and 18 Premiers Grands Crus classés

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